In May 2023 we spent 5 days on the beautiful Mediterranean island of Cyprus and saw and experienced a lot. In this article you can find out whether a visit is worthwhile and what we can recommend.
What sights are there in Cyprus?
Cyprus has a lot to offer and there is something for everyone. Whether you want to take it easy or need action, everyone will find the right thing here.
Nicosia - shared capital of Cyprus
Nicosia is the last divided capital in the world. That sounds unbelievable for a city that is part of the EU. You would expect something like that somewhere far away, but not here. The southern part is the capital of the Republic of Cyprus, the northern part the capital of the internationally unrecognized Turkish Republic of Cyprus.
Downtown Nicosia is lined with old houses and churches. The large shopping street Ledra Street, with its many shops, attracts a lot of visitors. Many small cafes and restaurants invite you to linger. Nevertheless, in our opinion, the city center is not particularly special. Parking is a disaster, so it's better to look for something on the outer ring of the city center and then walk inside.
In the middle of the city center you suddenly find yourself in front of it: the border. The border house is actually quite inconspicuous, but if you continue walking in the alleys, you really notice that in some places you can't go any further. Streets are barricaded and border guards stand atop small lookout towers, machine guns in hand. Here you are in the middle of a city on a guarded border. That's strange. The border has been open again since 2003 and since 2008 you can easily cross the border on Ledra Street with your passport. Unfortunately we didn't have it with us and therefore couldn't see the Turkish part of Nicosia. We'll definitely catch up on that on our next visit.
Troodos mountains
The Trodoos Mountains are the largest and highest mountains in Cyprus and are of volcanic origin. Olympos is the highest point on the island at 1952 m. Countless hiking and cycling routes start from here. We did a little tour by car and drove up and down the serpentines. The roads are very well developed, even if a bit narrow at times. Many small vantage points invite you to take a short break and enjoy the landscape. In winter, the summit region is usually snow-covered and you can even go skiing. Due to the height of the mountains, the temperatures are mostly very pleasant in summer and the climate is mild. We were totally amazed by the green forested mountains and can absolutely recommend a trip.
Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis
The Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis ('Church of St. Nicholas with the Roof') is an ancient Cypriot Orthodox Church from the 11th century. The Barn Roof Church is part of the UNESCO World Heritage and is located near the small town of Kakopetria in the Troodos Mountains. As a former part of a monastic complex, it has survived for many centuries and has been expanded and rebuilt in different eras. The beautiful frescoes inside the church are from the 11th to the 17th century and some of them are larger than life, depicting the namesake, St. Nicholas. As inconspicuous as this small church looks from the outside, it will amaze and captivate you from the inside. The frescoes are stunning and packed with great detail. If you plan your visit very early in the day, like we did in the pre-season, you will have enough time to enjoy the silence and tranquility of the little church.
Admission is free and possible Tuesday – Saturday: 09:00 – 16:00 and Sunday: 11:00 – 16:00. The church is closed on Mondays and public holidays.
Mountain village of Omodos in the Troodos mountains
On the edge of the Troodos Mountains you will find the tranquil mountain village of Omodos. That's what we thought, but it's not that tranquil and quiet here anymore. The village is beautiful with a great view towards the valley, surrounded by numerous vineyards. The small alleys invite you to stroll and you will discover something new around every corner. But tourism has also found its way here. On the main promenade, there is one coffee after the other, souvenir shops everywhere. We had imagined something more traditional. Nevertheless, the village is an absolute recommendation, because despite everything, the shops are nicely integrated into the cityscape and there are no typical tourist traps.
In the middle of the village there is a small monastery complex from the 4th century. The center is the "Holy Cross Monastery Church", which was rebuilt in the 19th century. The magnificently designed interior is definitely worth a visit. The entire facility has been beautifully restored and designed with great attention to detail. When we visited there was a baptism in the church and we only got a glimpse of the interior. There are several small museums in the monastery building: the Museum of Byzantine Art, the Museum of Folk Art and an exhibition documenting the Cypriots' struggle for freedom against the British after World War II until independence in 1960. Admission is free for all exhibitions. Not only the exhibits are an eye-catcher, but also the rooms in which the exhibition is held. The wooden art on the walls and ceilings and the artistically designed doors are museum enough. We were completely blown away by the beauty and history of this place.
Shipwreck of the Edro III
Seeing a shipwreck isn't really our thing. Otherwise we reject disaster tourism. However, we made an exception here because, apart from the ship, no one was injured. The Edro III ran aground on a rock in heavy seas in 2011 and is now lying just a few meters offshore on rocky ground. We couldn't believe how close the ship is to the cliff. As if you could touch it! At first we thought that the wreck must be decades old, but the salt water does the rest and makes everything rust and age faster. It's a spectacular sight! The crew members could be rescued quickly at that time, only the ship was never "saved" due to disagreements and therefore remained in a 12 degree tilt close to the coast.
Royal Tombs of Nea Paphos
The Tombs of the Kings of Nea Paphos is a cultural site on the coast of Paphos town. The archaeological site is a vast complex of rock tombs in which, contrary to the name, no kings were ever buried. Probably in the 3rd century BC. Chr., high-ranking officials and heads of state found their final resting place here. The area is home to various rock tombs in very different formations. The most beautiful and best-preserved chamber is chamber no. 3. Here you get a great impression of the splendor of the tombs. It is also an absolute adventure for children to climb in the chambers and discover everything. It is a bit creepy when you imagine that dead people have been lying here.
Located directly on the sea, you have a wonderful view over the coast, which creates a great atmosphere, especially in the morning and evening hours. Admission is €2.50 for adults, children are free. The opening times from spring to autumn are daily from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. In winter the opening times are shortened. There's even a free audio guide in German for mobile phones, which is a big plus even if the translation isn't quite right in some places.
Cape Greco and the south of the island
In the south-east of the island is Cape Greco with the associated national park. The rugged coastal landscape is an absolute must for all fans of the turquoise blue sea and fresh wind in your hair. You can explore the coast on foot, by bike or motorized. Small roads lead across the national park and there are many stops with great views. The many small bays and sea caves are beautiful and an adventure for children. The Blue Lagoon with its very clear water is recommended. During our visit, one of the many excursion boats was anchored here and created a party atmosphere with loud music. You can get information about the park at the visitor center.
A little further west, just before the town of Agia Napa, is the Bridge of Lovers. A rock bridge jutting out over the sea. To our surprise, it was smaller than we imagined, but really beautiful, an absolute highlight.
Salt Lake near Larnaca
If you want to experience flamingos in the wild, you should go to the salt lake right at Larnaca Airport. Unfortunately, the small lake is quite dirty and not very nice to look at. The flamingos were also quite far away and we didn't have a direct view. We think that we were just unlucky and there weren't that many animals in and around the lake. If you pass by here on the way to or from Larnaca, you should still plan a stop. You just have to see the animals.
What tips do we have for small hikes with children in nature?
There are countless hiking opportunities in Cyprus. Whether in the mountains or on the coast. We have undertaken two small hikes or walks and show you what is possible and what you should pay attention to.
Millomeris Waterfall
In the Troodos Mountains, near the small town of Pano Platres, lies the picturesque waterfall Millomeris. To reach it, you can either park above and hike down, or you can drive a narrow road until just before the waterfall. However, there are very few parking spaces available. It is only a few minutes' walk from the on-site car park. A staircase carved in stone leads down to the pool of the waterfall. With every step you notice how it gets cooler and more comfortable. Arriving at the bottom, we have to fight our way through crowds of people taking photos. There isn't much space here, but a photo without strangers' faces on it is still not a problem. The gorge is quite narrow, so you might have to queue on busy days. In spring there is still quite a lot of water, as it is not yet so dry. In midsummer it will definitely look different. But this is the perfect destination for hot days: not too far to walk, even for small children, and pleasantly refreshing coolness in front of the waterfall. A beautiful, idyllic place to linger and enjoy. If you are brave, you can also stand under the cold waterfall and really cool down.
Avaka's Canyon
In the west of Cyprus, not far from the coast, the Avakas Gorge is one of the great natural highlights of the island. If you like, you can hike directly from the sea to the gorge and then into it. If you want it a little more comfortable, we recommend that, especially with small children, you can also drive to the car park just before the gorge. The roads are not well developed, but you don't need an off-road vehicle.
The hiking trail to the gorge is wide and level, making it very easy for children. Only shortly before it gets narrower and rockier. You also have to cross the creek that flows through the gorge again and again. A real adventure for the whole family. Everything is green and blooming. The heat builds up quite a bit here in the valley and you should definitely think about drinking enough and sun protection.
In the canyon it is much cooler and more comfortable. The rock formations are spectacular and it feels like you are in one of the national parks in the USA. The individual layers of earth impressively show the power that was at work here. In some places water flows down the rocks from the very top. Just wow!
In any case, pay attention to falling stones and never visit the Schlicht in bad weather or rain. The small stream can then become a traveling river.
What general advice do we have for a holiday in Cyprus?
Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean, but only about twice the size of the Ruhr area. So the distances aren't too far, but they shouldn't be underestimated because the maximum speed on the Autobahn is 100 km/h. So plan enough time for your excursions. In addition, there is left-hand traffic in Cyprus, as a remnant of the British occupation. You can find out more information about traffic in Cyprus at ADAC. The national language is Greek as well as all cultural and especially culinary influences.
In the spring it was nice and warm and not too hot. Everything was still relatively green and not so extremely dried out. For us clearly the right season for Cyprus. In addition, there is not so much going on in the off-season, so that the destinations are not overcrowded. The sea was still a bit fresh, but it was definitely enough for swimming. In the high season in midsummer it will certainly be very crowded and extremely hot and dry here. We expect a lot of activity, especially in the south of the island, with the huge hotel complexes. In autumn, as in spring, it will definitely be quieter and not as hot. The sea will still be nice and warm from the summer. Cyprus is also said to be worth visiting in winter as the temperature is said to be very comfortable but with more rain.
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Summary
Cyprus was our highlight in spring: with a flight of just 3 hours, you already get summer temperatures here. The country has a lot to offer in terms of culture and nature and there is something for everyone, whether you are a beach lover or an active holidaymaker.
