In May 2023, we spent 5 days on the beautiful Mediterranean island of Cyprus and saw and experienced so much. Find out in this article whether it's worth a visit and what we can recommend.
What sights are there in Cyprus?
Cyprus has a lot to offer, and there's something for everyone. Whether you're looking for a quieter getaway or a thrilling adventure, everyone will find what they're looking for here.
Nicosia – divided capital of Cyprus
Nicosia is the last divided capital city in the world. That sounds incredible for a city that's part of the EU. You'd expect something like that somewhere far away, but not here. The southern part is the capital of the Republic of Cyprus, the northern part the capital of the internationally unrecognized Turkish Republic of Cyprus.
Nicosia's city center is lined with old houses and churches. The large shopping street, Ledra Street, with its many shops, attracts a lot of visitors. Many small cafés and restaurants invite you to linger. Nevertheless, in our opinion, the city center isn't particularly special. Parking is a disaster, so it's better to find somewhere on the outer ring of the city center and then walk in.
Right in the middle of the city center, you suddenly find yourself standing in front of it: the border. The border post is actually quite inconspicuous, but as you continue walking through the alleys, you really notice that in some places there is no way forward. Streets are barricaded, and border guards stand on small observation towers, machine guns in hand. Here you are, in the middle of a city, at a guarded border. It's quite strange. The border has been open again since 2003, and since 2008, you can simply cross the border on Ledra Street with your passport. Unfortunately, we didn't have ours with us and therefore couldn't see the Turkish part of Nicosia. We'll definitely make up for that on our next visit.
Troodos Mountains
The Troodos Mountains are the largest and highest mountain range in Cyprus and are of volcanic origin. At 1952 m, Mount Olympus is the highest point on the island. Countless hiking and cycling routes start from here. We took a short drive, driving up and down the winding roads. The roads are very well maintained, albeit a bit narrow at times. Many small viewpoints invite you to take a short break and enjoy the scenery. In winter, the summit region is usually covered in deep snow, and you can even go skiing. Due to the altitude of the mountains, temperatures are generally very pleasant in summer, and the climate is mild. We were absolutely thrilled by the lush, forested mountains and can highly recommend a trip.
Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis
Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis ("Church of St. Nicholas with the Roof") is an old Cypriot Orthodox church dating back to the 11th century. This barn-roof church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is located near the small town of Kakopetria in the Troodos Mountains. Formerly part of a monastery complex, it has survived for many centuries and has been expanded and rebuilt over the years. The beautiful frescoes inside the church date from the 11th to the 17th centuries and, in some cases, depict the church's namesake, St. Nicholas, larger than life. As inconspicuous as this small church appears from the outside, it will amaze and captivate you on the inside. The frescoes are breathtaking and rich in detail. If you plan your visit very early in the day, as we did in the off-season, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy the peace and quiet of the small church.
Admission is free and open Tuesday through Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. The church is closed on Mondays and public holidays.
Mountain village of Omodos in the Troodos Mountains
At the edge of the Troodos Mountains you'll find the tranquil mountain village of Omodos. Or so we thought, but it's not quite so tranquil and quiet here anymore. The village is beautiful, with a fantastic view of the valley, surrounded by numerous vineyards. The small streets invite you to stroll, and you discover something new around every corner. But tourism has also taken hold here. On the main promenade, one café follows the next, and souvenir shops are everywhere. We had imagined something more traditional. Nevertheless, the village is highly recommended, as the shops are beautifully integrated into the townscape and there are none of the typical tourist traps.
In the heart of the village lies a small monastery complex dating back to the 4th century. The focal point is the "Holy Cross Monastery Church," which was rebuilt in the 19th century. The magnificently decorated interior is absolutely worth a visit. The entire complex has been beautifully restored and designed with great attention to detail. During our visit, a baptism was taking place in the church, and we were only able to catch a glimpse of the interior. The monastery building houses several small museums: the Museum of Byzantine Art, the Museum of Folk Art, and an exhibition documenting the Cypriot struggle for freedom against the British after World War II until independence in 1960. Admission to all exhibitions is free. Not only are the exhibits eye-catching, but so are the rooms in which they are displayed. The wooden art on the walls and ceilings, as well as the ornately decorated doors, are museum-worthy in themselves. We were completely overwhelmed by the beauty and history of this place.
Shipwreck of the Edro III
Seeing a shipwreck isn't really our thing. We usually disapprove of disaster tourism. But we made an exception here because, apart from the ship, no one was hurt. The Edro III ran aground on a rock in heavy seas in 2011 and now lies on rocky ground just a few meters off the coast. We could hardly believe how close the ship is to the cliff. It's as if you could touch it! At first we thought the wreck must be decades old, but the salt water does the rest, causing everything to rust and age faster. It's a spectacular sight! The crew members were quickly rescued, but due to disagreements the ship was never "saved" and therefore remained at a 12-degree tilt close to the shore, so close you could touch it.
Royal Tombs of Nea Paphos
The Tombs of the Kings at Nea Paphos are a cultural site on the coast of the city of Paphos. The excavation site is a sprawling complex of rock tombs in which, contrary to its name, no kings were ever buried. Presumably built in the 3rd century BC, high-ranking officials and heads of state found their final resting place here. The area contains various rock tombs in very different designs. The most beautiful and best-preserved chamber is Chamber 3. Here, you get a wonderful impression of the splendor of the tombs. Even for children, climbing inside the chambers and discovering everything is an absolute adventure. It is a little creepy to imagine that corpses once lay here.
Located directly on the seafront, you have a wonderful view of the coast, which creates a wonderful atmosphere, especially in the morning and evening hours. Admission is €2.50 for adults, and children are free. Opening hours from spring to autumn are daily from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Opening hours are shortened in winter. There's even a free audio guide in German for mobile phones, although the translation isn't entirely accurate in some places, which is a huge plus.
Cape Greco and the south of the island
In the very southeast of the island lies Cape Greco and its associated national park. The rugged coastal landscape is an absolute must for all fans of turquoise seas and the fresh wind in your hair. You can explore the coast on foot, by bike, or by car. Small roads crisscross the national park, and there are many stopping points with fantastic views. The many small bays and sea caves are beautiful and an adventure for children. The Blue Lagoon, with its very clear water, is highly recommended. During our visit, one of the many excursion boats was anchored here, creating a party atmosphere with loud music. Information about the park is available at the visitor center.
A little further west, just before the town of Ayia Napa, lies the Bridge of Lovers. A rock bridge that towers over the sea. To our surprise, it was smaller than we imagined, but truly beautiful, an absolute highlight.
Salt lake near Larnaca
If you want to see flamingos in the wild, you should go to the salt lake right next to Larnaca Airport. Unfortunately, the small lake is quite polluted and not very pleasant to look at. The flamingos were also quite far away, and we didn't have a direct view. We think we were just unlucky and there weren't that many animals in or around the lake. Anyone passing through here on the way to or from Larnaca should still plan a stop. You simply have to see the animals for yourself.
What tips do we have for short hikes with children in nature?
There are countless hiking opportunities in Cyprus, whether in the mountains or along the coast. We've taken two short hikes and walks and will show you what's possible and what you should look out for.
Millomeris Waterfall
In the Troodos Mountains, near the small town of Pano Platres, lies the picturesque Millomeris Waterfall. To reach it, you can either park above and hike down, or drive along a narrow road to just before the waterfall. However, there are very few parking spaces. From the parking lot, it's only a few minutes' walk. A stone staircase leads down to the waterfall's basin. With every step, you can feel how cooler and more pleasant it becomes. Once at the bottom, we have to fight our way through crowds of people taking photos. There isn't much space here, but getting a photo without strangers' faces in it is still no problem. The gorge is quite narrow, so you might have to wait in line on busy days. In spring, quite a lot of water falls here, as it isn't yet so dry. In midsummer, things are certainly different. However, for hot days, this is the perfect destination: not too far to walk, even for small children, and the pleasantly refreshing coolness in front of the waterfall. A beautiful, idyllic place to linger and enjoy. If you're feeling brave, you can also stand under the cold waterfall and really cool off.
Avakas Gorge
In western Cyprus, not far from the coast, the Avakas Gorge is one of the island's great natural highlights. Those who like it can hike directly from the sea to the gorge and then into it. Those who prefer a more leisurely approach—we recommend this, especially with small children—can also drive to the parking lot just before the gorge. The roads are not well-maintained, but you don't need an off-road vehicle.
The hiking trail to the gorge is wide and flat, making it very easy even for children. It only becomes narrower and rockier shortly before reaching the gorge. You also have to repeatedly cross the stream that flows through the gorge. A real adventure for the whole family. Everything is green and blooming. The heat builds up quite a bit here in the valley, so you should definitely remember to bring plenty of water and wear sunscreen.
It's much cooler and more pleasant inside the gorge. The rock formations are spectacular, and you feel like you're standing in one of the national parks in the USA. The individual layers of earth impressively demonstrate the power that was at work here. In some places, water flows down the rocks from the very top. Simply wow!
Be sure to watch out for falling rocks, and don't visit the Schlicht during bad weather or rain. The small stream can then become a raging river.
What general advice do we have for a holiday in Cyprus?
Cyprus is the third-largest island in the Mediterranean, but only about twice the size of the Ruhr region. The distances aren't too far, but they shouldn't be underestimated, as the maximum speed on the motorway is 100 km/h. So plan enough time for your excursions. Furthermore, Cyprus drives on the left, a legacy from the British occupation. You can find out more about traffic in Cyprus at ADAC. The national language is Greek, as are all cultural and especially culinary influences.
In spring it was already nice and warm and not too hot. Everything was still relatively green and not extremely dry. For us it was definitely the right time of year for Cyprus. Plus, it's not that busy in the off-season, so the destinations aren't as crowded. The sea was still a bit chilly, but definitely warm enough for a swim. In the high season in midsummer, it will certainly be very crowded and extremely hot and dry. We expect a lot of activity, especially in the south of the island with its huge hotel complexes. In autumn, just like in spring, it will probably be quieter and not as hot. But the sea will probably still be nice and warm from the summer. Cyprus is said to be worthwhile in winter too, as the temperature is supposed to be very pleasant, but with more rain.
Did you like this article? Then share it on social media! This way you'll be supporting our work. We also welcome your opinion in the Comments.
